Haider Ackermann Ready-to-Wear Autumn/Winter 2012
Haider Ackermann’s RTW Autumn/Winter 2012 presentation was one of the best at this season’s Paris Fashion Week. It’s no wonder the French designer has been tipped as a replacement for Galliano at Dior, and also for Lagerfeld when he one day gives up the reins at Chanel – many are calling him the modern Yves Saint Laurent, and this season he’s more than lived up to these expectations. A favourite of many celebs, most notably Tilda Swinton, Ackermann’s designs, which have at times been described as androgynous, are a sophisticated mix of feminine waistlines and masculine detailing.
Ackermann is beautifully skilful at layering materials of different tonal shades to create a natural shadowing of color. Each outfit almost looks like a reflection of a natural image. Although he uses multiple, thick layers in many of his looks, his signature cinched-in waists add a degree of subtle femininity and elegance, so the wearer doesn’t look overwhelmed by the amount of material used in each design. The mix of leather, silk and wool materials, balance each piece and reflect light, creating a further level of interest.