Montréal Fashion Week: Anastasia Lomonova SS13
Prior to Anastasia Lomonova’s Spring/Summer 2013 show at Montréal Fashion Week, I’d been hearing a lot of hype surrounding the young Ukrainian-born designer. She is talked about as one of the rising stars of Canadian fashion and, in parts, her most recent collection lived up to these expectations.
Her SS13 presentation drew inspiration from North African style, which can be seen in the collection’s color palette and oversized, tribal-inspired accessories. For the hair styling and makeup, Lomonova chose Amerindian influences. I absolutely loved the red forehead makeup – this unique touch really made the whole collection pop off the runway.
Since starting her line in 2007, Lomonova has become known for her thematically-driven collections and her focus on translating abstract ideas into ready-to-wear collections. This facet of her design personality really exposed itself this season; and, the results were at times beautifully feminine and strong, but at other moments veered into unwearable territory. In particular, the full-body fringed “Wookie” suit is really a runway-only piece. It’s hard to imagine someone rocking up to an event in this outfit, but some of the fringed dresses and skirts were quite beautiful and easy to wear. In saying that the “Wookie” suit was the only outfit from any of the designers that elicited a gasp from the photographer’s pit. Good or bad, it certainly garnered attention. I really loved the chocolate brown, draped mini-dress – it fell gorgeously on the model’s body. The dresses featuring ruffles applied over a sheer material were the clear standouts of the collection, and would be perfect on red carpet events anywhere. They hint at influences from Marchesa’s sheer and ruffled mini-dresses (à la Blake Lively here and here).
Lomonova’s strength this season is that her collection is quite unique from anything else presented at Montréal Fashion Week. Most of the designers can fit into either urban-inspired street couture (Denis Gagnon, Hip and Bone) or they have a more flowing feminine aesthetic (DUY Collection, Martin Lim). In that sense, her work stood out from the pack for its unique design approach.